Friday, January 23, 2015

Saqqara & The Step-Pyramid of Djoser [Evolution of the Pyramids - Pt 1]

Lest you think my trip to Egypt was just a time for visiting the fabulous Skaggs Family, I'll be sharing some of my adventures, too. Here's the next installment: 

Everyone wanted to know if I was going to visit the pyramids while in Egypt. The answer: Of course! How could one travel so far and not take time to explore these wonders? Here are some things I've seen and a little of what I've learned, but first a disclaimer: The pictures below are from a scattering of places I visited and may not necessarily go together to represent one specific place. Rather, they are here to show you some of what I saw while on this trip... Archaeologist and historians should not assume I am accurate in every detail... just enjoy my pics, OK? ;) 

Cobra topped wall in the complex
The Step-Pyramid of Djoser, located in Saqqara (about 45 min drive from Cairo) isn't technically a pyramid in the truest sense of the word. Ancient Egyptians focused a great deal on the afterlife and, therefore, it was important for bodies to be preserved. Originally, bodies were buried in pits dug in the sand; however, they were often invaded by scavengers (both animal and human). Mastabas were added as the first tombs to better protect and preserve the bodies. These flat tombs were built over the top of elaborate underground burial chambers with tunnels and rooms.  The step-pyramid is actually a stack of mastabas. Eventually this form would evolve to the shape we commonly think of as a pyramid. 


Left: Stairwell leading down to one of the tombs we toured

Below: A tunnel leading to the burial chambers... Jonathan is over 6 ft tall, but even I, at five foot three and three quarters, had to duck to make it through this passage that was about 10 feet long. 
King Ti? Perhaps he's drinking tea?
Inside the tombs walls were covered with reliefs, some but not all were also painted and it is amazing to think that this paint has lasted for over 4000 years! 
A surprising discovery was the Serapeum of Saqqara, a vast underground necropolis dedicated to the bulls of Apis. The estimated weight of each sarcophagus, which is made of either red or black granite, (there are about 30 of them) is around 77 tons (according to the ever reliable wiki folks). This makes it baffling to imagine how thieves managed to get the one pictured (with Jen) moved as far as they did. [Note: a floor has been built around it, so the sarcophagus is actually a few inches taller than it appears... and there is a lid that is about 2.5-3 feet high that goes on top!] 

One of the sarcophagi in the Serapeum

Tunnel in the Serapeum
The Serapium reopened in 2012 after renovations to reinforce the structure, thus the iron beams seen in the above photo.... the Pyramid itself is under renovation now and covered with what we would consider archaic scaffolding (but is still commonly used in Cairo today)
                      

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